Online repair manual

This Line Following Robot sensor or surface scanner for robots is a very simple, stamp-sized, short range (5-10mm) Infrared proximity detector wired around a standard reflective opto-sensor CNY70(IC1). In some disciplines, a line following robot or an electronic toy vehicle go along a predrawn black line on a white surface. In such devices, a surface scanner, pointed at the surface is used to align the right track.

IC1 contains an infrared LED and a phototransistor. The LED emit invisible infrared light on the track and the phototransistor works as a receiver. Usually, black colored surface reflects less light than white surface and more current will flow through the phototransistor when it is above a white surface. When a reflection is detected (IR light falls on the phototransistor) a current flows through R2 to ground which generates a voltage drop at the base of T1 to make it conduct. As a result, transistor T2 start conducting and the visual indicator LED(D1) lights up. Capacitor C2 works as a mini buffer.

Line Follower Robot Scanner Schematic

After construction and installation, the scanner needs to be calibrated. Initially set P1 to its mechanical centre position and place the robot above the white portion of the track. Now slowly turn P1 to get a good response from D1. After this, fine tune P1 to reduce false detection caused by external light sources. Also ensure that the LED remains in off condition when the sensor module is on the blackarea. Repeat the process until the correct calibration is achieved.

The red color LED (D1) is only a visual indicator. You can add a suitable (5V) reed relay in parallel with D1-R4 wiring after suitable alterations to brake/stop/redirect the robot. Similarly, the High to low (H-L) transition at the collector of T2 can be used as a signal to control the logic blocks of the robot. Resistor R1 determines the operating current of the IRLED inside IC1. The sensing ability largely depends on the reflective properties of the markings on the track and the strength of the light output from IC1.

The Maxim MAX 6665 (www.maxim-ic.com) provides a complete temperature-dependent fan controller. It can switch fans operating at voltages of up to 24 V and currents of up to 250 mA. The IC is available from the manufacturer in versions with preset threshold temperatures between +40 °C (MAX6665 ASA40) and +70 °C (MAX6665 ASA 70). The device’s hysteresis can be set by the user via the HYST input, which can be connected to +3.3 V, connected to ground, or left open. The following table shows the hysteresis values available:

HYST = Hysteresis
open = 1 °C
ground = 4 °C
+3.3V = 8 °C

Fan Controller Circuit Diagram

The other pins of the SO8 package are the FORCEON input and the status outputs WARN, OT and FANON. The test input FORCEON allows the fan to be run even below the threshold temperature. The open-drain output WARN goes low when the temperature rises more than 15 °C above the threshold temperature, while the open-drain output OT indicates when the temperature is more than 30 °C above the threshold. The push-pull output FANON can be used to indicate to a connected microcontroller that the fan is turned on.

 

 

 

Source by : Streampowers

The Part of 1982 Jeep CJ-5 Wiring Diagram: dimmer switch, headlamp, turn indicator, ignition switch,
voltmeter, pressure gage, fuse block, dome lamp, light switch, turn signal flasher, voltage regulator, temp gage sender, tachometer, park brage switch, brake warning indicator, backup lamps

This up/down timer circuit was designed to control a power antenna on a late-model vehicle. Normally, this vehicle uses a body computer to control the antenna. However, the person who owned the vehicle wanted to install his own high powered audio stereo system. The original stereo system was tied in with the body computer and this meant that a separate antenna controller was required for the after-market sound system. Also, the power antenna fitted did not have limit switches inside, hence the need for a timed control circuit. Heres how the circuit works. first, assume that the radio antenna control output is not switched on - ie, the radio is switched off.

In that case, relay RLYC will be off and so relay RLYA will also be off, as is the motor. Conversely, when the radio is switched on, the radio antenna control output line switches to +12V. And when that happens, RLYC closes its contacts and applies power to the circuit. As a result, C2 (330OF) quickly charges via D4, while Q4 is biased on via D5 and R5. This ensures that Q3 and relay RLYB remain off. At the same time, Q2 is is turned on, thus turning on RLYA and applying power to the motor. This drives the antenna in the up direction. During this time, C1 charges via R2.

Up/Down Timer Circuit  Diagram

When the voltage across the capacitor reaches +8.1V, Q1 turns on via ZD1 and so Q2 turns off and switches off the relay - ie, this gives the "up" timeout. Using the values shown for C1, R2 and ZD1 gives an "up" duration of approximately 6 seconds - long enough to fully extend the antenna. D1 discharges C1 (via resistor R1) when the +12V supply is later removed.

When the radio is switched off (or a CD placed into the stereo unit), the radio antenna control output switches back to 0V. This does several things: first, it turns Q4 off and this allows Q3 to turn on due to the stored charge in C2. Q3 and RLYB now turn on for about six seconds - ie, while C2 discharges via R4 - and this switches power to the motor in the opposite direction to drive the antenna down. Diodes D4 and D5 are there to prevent C2 from discharging back via the circuitry around on Q1 and Q2.